Posted by Shawn Sisco on September 13, 2011 at 15:26:50:
Since there is airspace between the purling and the metal roofing with ribs that run up to the ridge cap; I have eliminated the caps so far no issues… I should say that I am only refering to plumbing vents- not gas vents- this is all-electric home turf.
Roofing - Posted by lando
Posted by lando on September 11, 2011 at 06:54:01:
Roofing
I have had some issues with roofing. One time I had a problem with the rafters on a 79 14X56, the rafters gave out and the ceiling was sagging almost a foot. When the tenant moved out I decided to tear out the complete ceiling and build “skyhooks”.
I call them skyhooks but what I do is I jack the rafters back into place and skin them up solid with 7/16 wafer board and put a clip of n19 staples in each one. Anyway, I decided that this would be the next job on the agenda so I scheduled it for a Monday. I got the dumpster put in front of the house on the Friday before the job. Over the weekend the wind came up and blew off the entire sheet metal roof off! (To bad it wasn’t insured) Well since the original steel roof was laying on the ground we didn’t remove the ceiling, but instead worked from the top. We set a couple of false 2X4 stud walls jacked up inside with a top plate to make the ceiling the right height, or maybe a little high, and simply built our skyhooks from above, it worked great! I then wafer board sheeted it in and used “torch down” for a roof. I didn’t like the torch down, thinking next time I will use metal. But I definitely liked doing it from above.
I later talked to a house setter, who has done hundreds of mobile homes and is my set up guy. I asked him what he does in a rafter sag situation like mine if it was his house, and he told me he un-nails (staples, screws) the entire metal roof edge and vents, and then rolls the metal half way back, he then fixes the rafters from above and puts down sheeting, and then puts the metal back on, then does the other side, renails the edges and it always works great.
Actually this would be the cheapest fix but you would need some careful helpers to roll the metal back.
This is another job: I had a tenant that I didn’t want to lose, that had been in the house for over 4 years and their roof simply wasn’t fixable. So we got bids and had a 4/12 pitch sloped wood construction comp roof built over it. The guys that did the work were sort of dreamers and not quite real professional, so I had to have them redo a lot of it before I paid them, but they got it done. That was a rather expensive and time consuming project. I would never do it that way again, and definitely not with unknown contractors.
I talked to a local roofer my son knew and he told me what he does for his customers, pretty simple actually, he lays 1X4s down on 3 foot centers, and then he puts metal over all the edges, and screws down 3 ribbed steel sheets, he takes the whole width of a a single wide and adds a couple of inches for the edges, and then screws them down, bending them in the middle by walking them down.
I had a trailer that had a wood sloped 4/12 thing added to the middle section, some years ago but we didn’t do the back bedroom thinking it was fine, but it developed a secret leak, and we didn’t seem to be able to fix it even with many attempts, so I did this method (except used 2’ centers), and it was simple, quick, effective and extremely inexpensive for the predictable quality it produced! I used high ribbed metal to match the other section, but it didn’t bend easy, I later found out the you should use low ribbed metal so it doesn’t kink at the ridge.
Re: Roofing - Posted by Steve-WA
Posted by Steve-WA on September 13, 2011 at 10:22:32:
so furring strips horizontally along the length of the singlewide, and ribbed metal transverse? Were the sheets of metal long enough to cross the entire width plus overhang, i.e., 14+ feet? Or did you have to overlap?
I need to buy Mike Scarboroghs dvds . . .
Re: Roofing - Posted by Shawn Sisco
Posted by Shawn Sisco on September 13, 2011 at 11:37:08:
Steve on a peak roof 16 wide - I use 2x4’s as perlens. perimeter - then 2’ o.c. in between perimeter boards.I then install an edge piece of painted metal that covers the perimeter perlen and the old drip edge. (at this point is a real good time to cut holes in old metal roof and ad some blown insulation.) I get a ridge cap instead of bending the metal sheet- I’ve seen it done but I would be concerned a crack would form at the bend.
The metal supply cuts the panels to length - I leave a 1’ overhang.
Re: Roofing - Posted by Don-NY
Posted by Don-NY on September 13, 2011 at 11:00:05:
Steve, I have used the 3/4" high ribbed roofing over “curved” roofs with great results. You can order it cut to the inch up to 20’ long. I put the 1X’s (lengthwise) no more than 18"-20" on center otherwise my fat a$$ kinks the steel between furring strips. Anyways I do not recommend more than 24" oc for the strips.
big words - Posted by Steve-WA
Posted by Steve-WA on September 13, 2011 at 15:04:32:
perlen? I assume that is the furring strip, or nailer for the metal.
I am thinking of a rounded metal singlewide roof, 12 or 14 wide. We dont have 16 wides here - state DOT won’t allow them down the road.
Re: Roofing - Posted by lando
Posted by lando on September 13, 2011 at 11:27:47:
Don, me too about the 24 inch centers! 250 lbs of lard up there certainly bends that stuff silly!
Steve: I tried it once by splitting them in the center and that was way more work plus cost for trim at the ridge, so I just went from the bottom on one side to the bottom on the other side and bend the metal in the center ridge crown it actually bends easy by stepping on it carefully.
Next job however I will map out the metal better, I would rather cut the metal at the roof vents and then install them with a nice healthy overlap, than goop them in from above. One other thing I learned is to put wood all the way around the vents when you strip it in, that way you can secure the vents nice and tight.
Re: big words - Posted by Shawn Sisco
Posted by Shawn Sisco on September 13, 2011 at 15:21:40:
Yeah Steve perlen, or is that perlin? Purling, maybe that is it.Terminology of pole barn builders and iron workers.
I have seen the rounded roof roof overs use a ridge cap too. the 29 gauge ribbed metal is pretty stiff and lighter gauge is kind of a special order higher $$ item.
As you know steel is much more expensive now than even a few years ago- I’m currently paying $59.00 per square (100sq. ft) for galvanized $69 for painted.
vents - Posted by Steve-WA
Posted by Steve-WA on September 13, 2011 at 15:07:42:
you talking the plumbing and bath and range hood vents? or vent caps, or both? I’m thinking cut a doughnut of 3/4" ply to slide down over pipe vents or split and go around capped vents. Sound good?
Man, I need to make a trip to see somebody do this. Or probably Mike S’s dvds show the whole thing . …
Re: vents - Posted by lando
Posted by lando on September 13, 2011 at 17:57:35:
I was talking about if there is a vent or pipe sticking out of the roof, I like to cut the roofing at about the top of the flashing, and notch the top of the roofing sheet around the hole, and then install the flashing or vent which gives gravity a great reason for the downhill slope to deliver the water to the outside instead of the inside, and then take the rest of the sheet of roofing down toward the bottom of the flashing or vent similar to with a flashing on a comp shingle job, I used to roof for a living and the thought of installing a flashing contrary to gravity, and then sealing it off with goop and hoping for the screws to stay tight, well that seems like a leak waiting for a wind storm, even though that is what most roofers around here do.
as far as the wood sheeting around the pipe or hole, I just went from one rafter to the next and nailed them down with KC27’s.