Posted by Brenda (OH) on January 04, 2011 at 18:23:15:
I was able to replace the hinges back into the original location on a screen door by using a pop riveter… there was a screw, but nothing to catch onto inside the door. this let me keep the hinge inside the frame of the door.
I did the same thing to reattach/tighten up the little lock that slides up and down on the door.
any comments if you make the door all plexiglass, and no screen? 1/4 plexiglass is awfully expensive up here, $49 a sheet, anyone use anything thinner?
I tackled an inswinging, foam filled, plastic trimed exterior door rebuild today.
First I removed the door handle and window frames (they just unscrew).
Then I carefully removed the striker side of the door by unscrewing and removing the plastic trim piece and removing the nails that hold the bent metal edge on.
Next I (very gingerly) pulled the plastic skins from the foam core.
Next I removed and discarded the foam core. I scraped the glue and bits of foam off the skins and set them aside.
I then drilled pilot holes and put 2 screws into each corner of the door through the wood frame members (one from each direction).
I reinstalled the bent metal striker side edge using trim screws instead of the nails that were in there.
I slid one skin back into place (the one oposite the hinges)and glued and clamped the striker block to it with foam board adhesive.
The foam core is about 1 1/4" thick so I bought two 3/4" pieces of white foamboard. I used the white because it is slightly undersize so two 3/4" pieces is about 1 1/4" (the blue board is stronger but it is full thickness so it would be too thick).
I peeled the saran coatings from the foamboard for better adhesion. (don’t know if this was needed)
I cut the foam to fit snugly in the door. I laid the door on a flat surface with the skin side down and applied some adhesive to the inside surface of the skin.
I put the first piece of foam in and put some more glue on and installed the second piece of foam then more glue and the top skin.
It can be tricky getting the skin to slide under the trim with the glue on it but it can be done.
I reinstalled the striker trim with the original screws.
Then I placed a piece of scrap foam on top of everything and weighted it down with some sand bags.
After the glue dried I cut out the window openings in the foam, installed the windows and the door handle. TA DA! Now a word of caution, this is a great fix for a LD home but I would install a house type door in your rentals unless your tenants are far far more easy on doors than mine.
Total time about 2-3 hours but I figure this is a wash because I would have this tied up installing a new door. Materials Cost about $30 vs $300+ for a new door unit. Next Time I do one I may take a video, good idea?
Don
Posted by Tony Colella on January 01, 2011 at 18:42:37:
Great post and I would imagine a youtube or Scarbrough type video would be awesome!
I have not bought an exterior mobile home door and frame in some time but thought I remembered them being more like $80 or $100 but not anymore near $300 but you may be referring to the kind that come with the 10 minute screen doors (because mine have never lasted longer that by the looks of the remains).
Hey Don if you get some time in the next day or so shoot me a phone call please (think you still have the number but I misplaced yours).
Posted by JeffB (MI) on January 02, 2011 at 09:00:12:
Screen doors…ugh! 2010 was a bad year for storm doors for me. Seemed like every LD I got back, or every home I bought, had the storm door ripped right out of the frame. I have no idea what these people are doing to have them rip right out of the hinges like this, but it’s annoying because the only proper fix is a whole new door unit ($200+). I would just eliminate the storm door but it’s a resale requirement in the park where I work.
Posted by miket/nc on January 04, 2011 at 07:06:25:
I have reworked several screen doors. I replace the hinge that comes with it and replace it with regular hinges. I just attach them on the outside of the door and door casing with screws. Then I replace the glass, if there’s any left, with 1/4 inch plexiglas.Lowes sells
some clips that I use to secure the plexi. After I have it in I’ll usually run a bead of clear silicon around the edges to help hold it in. Also on some doors I have installed a 1/8 x 2.5 inch piece of aluminum across the door about half way up. About where someone would push on the glass. I usually install my safety chain with screws to make it harder to get off. I use hex headed screws to install the piece that attaches the closer to the door casing.Lowes sells some with metal and rubber washers that are designed for roofs. I use these because the head is about twice as high and it makes removing them easier. I tell my tenants to remove these if they have to get a wide piece of furniture in. Instead of just taking a hammer and bending it over like I have had some do. Finally I’ll take flat angle braces and attach them to each corner to stiffen the door up some. This won’t make the door tenant proof but it will make it more enjoyable for them to tear up as some I believe like a more challenging project.
Posted by shawn sisco on January 02, 2011 at 19:33:26:
Doors that swing in on a MH without roof overhang will invariably suffer water damage on floor around that door unless a storm door functioning as designed.
If storm door won’t be maintained, one should opt for outswing door.
Posted by Glen (OH) on January 02, 2011 at 09:26:12:
It?s been my experience that kids ( and some adults) like to hang and swing on the storm doors. As we all know these units are marginal at best and the weight of the swinger distorts the hinges and things go downhill from there. I?ve also found that the buyers, for whatever reason like to disconnect the spring/chain unit and closer. Maybe there is something soothing with the sound of a storm door slamming into the side of the home during a wind storm!?!
Posted by bwtarheel on January 10, 2011 at 20:45:24:
Don, I’ve quit replacing in-swing/storm door combos altogether. I just snatch it all out and put in an out-swing “back” door. Lots cheaper upfront and TONS cheaper down the road. No more “open once and discard” storm doors for me. But, your solution is excellent for those that like the in-swing look. Thanks for the info.
PS–some dang funny comments guys! We sure need some humor in this business.