Posted by Dr B. (OH) on October 05, 2007 at 19:28:20:
John,
I usually prop the bucket on the roof with some boards. If you’ve got a peaked roof nail together a little platform that will straddle the peak.
I use a stiff brush applicator (sold next to the roof coat)and an extension handle for paint rollers. Dip, slop, and spread. One caveat- neatly trim your edges along the gutters or you’ll have it down the side of the trailer and its the devil to get off. Lots of paint thinner will take it off, along with the fake wood grain painted on the side panels.
Posted by John T (WI) on October 05, 2007 at 17:16:39:
Dang it! When we bought this home in late winter, we noticed a ceiling stain in the hallway. I patched “suspicious” areas on the roof with Black Jack, and we watched the ceiling, no more leaks, so we painted the ceiling.
Last month, with all the rain, we saw there was water in the insulation/plastic in the bathroom ceiling (bath was a complete tearout). Went on the roof again, and blackjacked a likely looking area. Seemed to do it.
So, after two mild rainstorms this week, I go to the home to work on it, and the dang hallway ceiling is sagging and soft!!
Look at the roof again, and the only likely suspect is the where the roof and j-channel/drip cap meet (metal roof). There’s a bunch of cracking in this area. I blackjacked the cracks, but I think I better bite the bullet and seal the roof.
Anyone have any tips about using one of those buckets on a roof? do I just dip the roller in the bucket as much as possible, then use a paint pan when it gets too low for dipping, or what?
Do you think these cracks were responsible for the seepage?
I’ll have to cut out the ceiling and insulation in the hallway now and put up drywall. Can’t wait for it to dry not to mention possible mold issues.
Posted by John T (WI) on October 07, 2007 at 17:40:30:
Cut a couple of cieling panels in the hallway out where they were sagging. Pulled the insulation in one section all the way to the roof, the water was definitely coming from the edge of the roof.
I wasn’t able to coat the roof today, cause the forecast calls for rain for the next couple of days, but I’m confident the black jack I put in the cracks will hold it at bay until I can coat.
The coating I bought recommends a brush. The brushes the store had are 7" wide! Its gonna take awhile…
Mixing the Koolseal well is important too. I use a drill attachment to mix it. I have seen alot of roofs that appear to have nothing but tar applied to them, then realized that it probably is a case of not mixing the silver fibered Koolseal well.
Posted by Paul-GA on October 06, 2007 at 06:59:14:
John, when you tear the ceiling out, you maybe able to see the path of the water on your rafters. At least I have done this on 2 occasions, and followed it back to my source. I use Kool Seal patch(white) on leaking areas then the regular Kool Seal(white). For a 16x80 I buy the 5 Gal bucket and pour half in an empty bucket. I take my roller, roller screen that drops in 5 gal buckets and bucket on the roof with me. With the bucket only being half full, it is a lot less likely to tip over. I haven’t turned over one in 10 years. I use a roller, because it is much neater. When you combine that with the white Kool Seal it will really enhance the appearance of your home.
Posted by mike/nc on October 06, 2007 at 05:35:12:
John, if your ceiling is already messed up to the point you have to tear it out anyway here’s what I’d do. Put someone on top with a water hose and let them flood the roof real good. You should be able see where the water is coming in at.Seal that area along with the rest of the roof and then flood again to check for leaks before you begin to build back.