Posted by Dr B(OH) on January 30, 2009 at 09:52:30:
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aftermarket roofing - Posted by CedricR
Posted by CedricR on January 29, 2009 at 10:15:02:
My 14 x 70 '86 Oakwood sitting on 1.5 acres is free and clear. 2 bedrooms w/ 2 baths median rent for this area is $650.00 month. The roof is pretty rusty and COULD be cleaned/painted/sealed but I’m leaning towards having an insulated rubber or metal roof installed.
Good points are extra insulation (home is in full sun), less or NO maintenance, no rust streaks down the outside walls, overall appearance and selling points to prospective tenants.
Bad points are expense… and? I’ve got one estimate for rubber roof, $3200.00 and metal roof, $3700.00. Figuring out the cost recoupment is easy even for me. 
How about the long term factors? Are there any companies that do this kind of work that are better than others? Is one type of roof to be avoided at all costs? Is the best solution to attach trusses and go with a shingle roof? The conventional shingle roof is something I COULD do myself but the cost wouldn’t be all that different from the estimates I’ve gotten for the other kinds.
What say you experts?
Re: aftermarket roofing - Posted by Tim (NC)
Posted by Tim (NC) on January 29, 2009 at 17:14:28:
Earlier this year, I was the proud owner of an '80s model with a rounded roof that was too far gone to patch. My handyman bought the materials for a metal roof ($1K) and installed it in a day with his helper ($250). It doesn’t look like rocket surgery to me.
Regards,
Tim
Re: aftermarket roofing - Posted by Tony Colella
Posted by Tony Colella on January 29, 2009 at 14:21:04:
I know that Steve Case has had quite a few of these installed in the larger park he just bought. Same problem, rusted roofs which make his high end park show poorly. He has gone with the rubber roofing and may be able to provide better info regarding costs, installation etc.
I know my buddy Scott has done the rolled roofing which was not too bad an expense (as best I recall) and solved the constant leaking problem he never did quite solve using other methods.
Tony
Re: aftermarket roofing - Posted by Don-NY
Posted by Don-NY on January 30, 2009 at 03:59:12:
I have had good luck with using barn siding/roofing. It is explained at mobilehomerepair site. I did it in 1 day with a helper, about $1000 for a 14x70. You could use 2x4’s for the purlins and fill the spaces with 1 1/2" rigid foam.
Re: aftermarket roofing - Posted by CedricR
Posted by CedricR on January 30, 2009 at 03:26:05:
Good price there Tim! Did he get the materials from a MH supplier or a local Home Depot/Lowe’s? Did he do any insulation of the roof system?I see you are in NC, I’m just north of Raleigh. Where are you doing business?
Me too, me too! - Posted by Dr B(OH)
Posted by Dr B(OH) on January 30, 2009 at 06:20:10:
Cedric, Don & gang,
I ordered that same metal barn roofing (in white) cut to size (about 7.5 ft) from a lumber yard. Took a week from order to delivery. I recommend adding 2.5 - 3" for an overhang that these trailers sorely need. It was very heavy when stacked, so bring a trailer, flatbed or have it delivered. We also ordered all edge foam, special screws, end caps, and ridge caps. All tolled, $1234.92. You can buy nails, which are cheaper, instead of screws but run the risk of whacking a dent in the metal with the hammer.
We used 2x3 purlins along the length of the trailer. Try to get 16 footers to save time. We stretched it a bit and went with spacing at 30" apart instead of recommended 24" Wouldn’t do that again, roof was a bit weak between purlins but fortunately my helper and I are light. 2hrs to screw in purlins, 9 hrs to complete roof.
This roof will create trapped pockets of air (if u seal at bottom edge with the formed foam strips) adding a wee bit of insulation. I hadn’t thought about adding extra fiberglass or styrofoam insulation. If it lowers your tenants heating/cooling bill you are more likely to get paid and keep the tenant.
Steve
Re: Me too, me too! - Posted by Don-NY
Posted by Don-NY on January 30, 2009 at 06:42:40:
I found 18" is best for spacing the purlins. But then again I am not light. Anything over that and the roofing buckles in if you step between them. I buy mine from a store specializing in barns. On a round roof home you can run it from side to side no need for a ridge vent. Like Doc says add 5-6" to the width for overhangs.
One more thing - rubber roofing - Posted by Dr B(OH)
Posted by Dr B(OH) on January 30, 2009 at 06:39:22:
Steve Case showed a few of us a video of him and his workers putting on a rubber roof. He bought the material from ABC Supply, a national supplier.
If I recall correctly, their first trial was with 6’ wide material 100’ long. They ran a run of the material along the length of the trailer on each side, starting at the bottom edge. Then they split the material in half (3’) and folded it over the top barely overlapping the material already placed.
He reported that on the next trailer they were going to lay the 6’ material along the back edge of the trailer and buy 10’ material for the front, folding over the ridge and overlapping the back by nearly 2’. No jagged cuts, less labor time, no worries about whether it will overlap or not.
Steve reported material cost in the $600 range. However, this material is extremely heavy and you need a system or a lot of people to lift it and allow it to roll out easily.
Hopefully he will chime in here.
Steve
Re: Me too, me too! - Posted by Dr B(OH)
Posted by Dr B(OH) on January 30, 2009 at 06:49:24:
Don,
Isn’t it about a 6" drop from center to edge? Does the metal have enough give in it not to buckle when going from side to side? I presume you put no nailer(purlin) in the center (“ridge”), thus you would still have about a 4.5" drop in 6-7 feet, no?
Steve
Re: One more thing - rubber roofing - Posted by Don-NY
Posted by Don-NY on January 30, 2009 at 08:01:39:
One thing about rubber roofing is if your roof looks like the surface of the moon and has several coats of tar on it. It doesn’t work too well. The rubber streches over the craters and then ice pushes it down and tears it. If you live where you get ice.
Re: Me too, me too! - Posted by Don-NY
Posted by Don-NY on January 30, 2009 at 07:53:30:
I bends to the roof curve nicely. I do not put a purlin right on the “peak” Nice thing is you can buy it cut to length for the same price, about .75-.80. a square foot
Re: One more thing - rubber roofing - Posted by shawn sisco
Posted by shawn sisco on January 30, 2009 at 15:54:04:
Don, if roof has a rough surface install styrofoam sheet (long screws with BIG washers) before the EPDM.