Thanks for your advice. Would you recommend any “good practice” way that I can do this plumbing job?
(specifically, would I need a “P-trap” for the drain pipe to the sewer line? if so, should it be located
below the shower or next to the sewerline or at both places?
would i need to use metal pipes or would plastic pipes suffice?)
I guess I would have to tell the tenants not to use any sink/water/toilet during the task, but how can I make sure the pipe won’t spill out stuff when I cut thru…
I have done some simple pipe jobs in the past but never even attempted a sewer line in fear of “Unidentified Brown Objects” flying into me… 8-/
I’m trying to put a crude bare bone stand up shower in the basement area for my tenant. I can rig the water pipes,
but not sure what to do with the drain.
I see the sewer pipe running vertically from the top floor down to the basement. The pipe is about 6 feet away.
The laundry washing machine drains to the sewerpipe,
but the black pipe from the washer is just “hanging” at a high-level on top of the white pvc sewer pipe.
If I was to route a pipe from the shower drain there, my guess is that water will just backflow since it can not rise to a higher elevation.
Is there a way to take care of the drain without doing major cement/ digging/patching/ sewer pipe work?
Did anyone here ever route the basement shower drain to the sump pump well? I think the sump pump will have to operate every single day therefore it probably will wear out faster. Has anyone ever done this?
You did mention the word “Crude” in what you are trying to install, so let me give you an idea that would accomplish your objective. (First, I assume that you are NOT having this inspected, cause this will not pass code, not because of any other reason than it will not be vented properly). Here goes…
Build a small platform out of 2x10’s or 2x12’s, a little larger than the base of the shower. Cover it with 3/4" OSB, just like a sub-floor, then some sheet vinyl and some vinyl or metal edging; finish off to your level of preference). Before covering the floor joists that you have constructed, out of 2x 10’, or 12’s, with the OSB sheeting, run your plumbing in the joists, just as if you were doing so on the 1st floor, with basement below. Hold the shower flange up as high as possible, but you will have to “trap” the drain, and I recommend using 3" PVC for this. Now with the remaining heigth that you have left, run this PVC (exposed) toward the main stack, maintaining a little fall toward the drain; at least 1/4" per 10’ of run. You will need to cut the stack, in two places, just above the floor. Install two “Furnco” fittings, with a “Y” junction, 3" to accept you shower drain. When completed, if you wish to enclose the 3" drain line running from shower to waste stack, that is your preference.
Have a nice shower. The drain may work a little slow, without the venting, but will be more than adequate for a shower drain. Let me know if you have questions, or if this works out for you. Good Luck.
in order to tie into the main you would have to tie in below the floor level as not only are you to be concerned for back flow but you’ll need enough of a pitch as to not let waste from the rest of the house flow into the shower.
Flotec makes a sump pump that is small and quiet and automatic i have had one for about 5 years now and have never had a problem and it runs at least 3 times a day so i would run the shower to the sump then pump it into the main
PerlM,
If your main stack goes through the basement floor there is a good chance you can tie into it without using a Pump as long as you could provide enough pitch on the drain pipe when you tie it into the system (1/4" per foot). If it does not you will have to put in a special pump that will pump it up to the level you can tie into the drain system.
No matter what you do you will have to do some concrete work if you want a professional looking job. You could put it up on a platform to get the drain high enough to tie into the stack without getting into the concrete but it doesn’t look as professional and it won’t look like an after thought. Besides most basement floors are only 3 to 4 inches thick and you can bust open the area you are working with a heavy sledge hammer or you can rent an electric Jack hammer to make it easier. It may take a little more work but it will certainly look better when you are done.
As far as running into a sump area, most sump areas either run into a storm drain system or out on open ground I would not suggest you do this because the soap could cause problems, and in most areas it would be against code for this type of installation.